Four Kings 四大天王

Review Highlights

Four Kings is a modern Cantonese restaurant in San Francisco's Chinatown, opened by chefs Franky Ho and Mike Long — both alumni of Michelin-starred Mister Jiu's — alongside their partners Millie Boonkokua and Lucy Li. Named after the Four Heavenly Kings of Cantopop, the narrow counter-seat space channels 1990s Hong Kong nostalgia through its music and decor, while the open kitchen turns out dishes where fine-dining precision meets playful, personal cooking. The restaurant was named to The New York Times' 2024 list of the 50 best restaurants in America, with writer Eleanore Park calling it 'much-needed fire' breathing new life into San Francisco's dining scene.

• ·XO Escargot — served in shells under a buttery sheen, paired with pillowy milk bread. Originated as a compound butter chef Franky Ho made for a birthday picnic, later upgraded with escargot into a signature starter.
• ·Sichuan Cabbage — deceivingly simple on the menu, but dusted generously with scallion powder — the NYT calls it 'one of the best dishes.' “That’s what Four Kings will do: grab you in a way that’s bold, exhilarating and needed.”
• ·Mapo Spaghetti — Ho's self-described mastermind creation: a mapo tofu-inspired chili spaghetti with ground chuck, beef tallow, Sichuan peppercorns, chile flakes, and doubanjiang. Described as 'playful' and 'something we like to eat ourselves.'
• ·Chile Crisp Pig's Head — deboned, seasoned with five-spice and Sichuan peppercorns, rolled into a roulade, poached, and served sliced with housemade chili crisp. A refined take on the cold charcuterie course at traditional Cantonese banquets.
• ·Fried Squab ($45) — sourced from Ho's hometown of Shiqi, Guangdong; air-dried for over a week to concentrate flavor and crisp the skin, then smoked and deep-fried to order. Served whole with salt-and-pepper dip. The restaurant's self-described 'bread and butter.'
• ·Whole Fried Dover Sole — salted and hung to dry for three days, deep-fried to order, served with house-fermented mustard greens sourced from Produce Land in Chinatown. Inspired by a classic Chinese stew of sour mustard greens and fish.
• ·Seafood Supreme — a showstopping twist on Cantonese crispy noodles: whole Maine lobster with scallops and shrimp, covered in lobster gravy made from lobster stock. A 'statement piece' that turns heads across the dining room.
• ·Hot Mustard Jellyfish Salad — a cold salad inspired by Japanese takowasa, swapping wasabi for Chinese hot mustard. A 'punchy kick' reimagining of the classic Cantonese banquet starter.

The New York Times named Four Kings to its 2024 list of the 50 best restaurants in America, with Eleanore Park praising the 'singular' energy and dishes that 'grab you in a way that’s bold, exhilarating and needed.' The chefs' fine-dining pedigree from Mister Jiu's shows in the technical precision of each plate, but the atmosphere is pure Chinatown — a narrow counter-seat room, a Cantopop soundtrack, and the rhythmic clank of woks from the open kitchen. It has quickly become one of the hardest reservations in San Francisco, with seats released at midnight three weeks in advance and limited walk-in counter space filling fast.

About

Four Kings is a modern Cantonese restaurant in San Francisco's Chinatown from chefs Franky Ho and Mike Long, whose pedigrees include the Michelin-starred Mister Jiu's, alongside partners Millie Boonkokua and Lucy Li. Named after the Four Heavenly Kings of Cantopop, the narrow counter-seat space channels 1990s Hong Kong nostalgia through its soundtrack and decor while the open kitchen spins Cantonese classics through a playful, technically precise lens. Named one of The New York Times' 50 best restaurants in America in 2024, it has become one of the most sought-after tables in the city.